Why I think GemGenève is the future? A touch of modernity in an ancestral industry

A few weeks back, I was approached by a local journalist about the current changes and issues in the jewelry industry. More specifically the journalist wanted to know my opinion on GemGenève and the potential importance of the fair on new generations in the business. It got me thinking about why I love the fair so much and why I look forward every time for the next GemGenève.

GemGenève is pivotal for the future of the jewelry and stone market because it brings the knowledge of generational businesses with the energy and sustainability of promoting young creators and ideas. The jewelry world is historically a very secretive industry, hidden behind heavy security, confidentiality and nepotism. GemGenève breaks the dusty image of old men whispering prices per carat on the corner of a table in the back office of a jewelry booth, and welcomes, promotes and nurtures changes whilst keeping alive the essence of the traditionality. Since I started in this business over a decade ago, I have travelled around the world and participated in basically all the jewelry shows. If the local culture sometimes gave an impression of exotism, once inside the blend walls of the conference centers, it was always the same people, with the same attitude, and most of the time offering the same goods from one city to the other. GemGenève brought 3 very important new aspects that differentiates it from other jewelry fairs: creativity is rewarded, research is shared and everyone is welcomed.

Everyone is welcomed!

Let me start with a little personal anecdote. While I was still a student, I shadowed for a day a diamond dealer at the famous Basel fair. Few obstacles came up even before I even entered the show: I was not “part of the trade” so technically I could not be invited and giving me a pass entailed some elaborate logistic of lies. Then, I was a woman, or should I say girl as, really, I was barely 20 years old! Being a woman had never been a problem for me but in a male dominated industry at the time it made me feel like a second-class citizen; a personal feeling maybe, but one I know other women in the industry have felt. A feeling reinforced by several instances when I was requested to leave the negotiation table as “no girls were allowed”, which at first, I thought it was a joke. Alas no, some very old-fashioned men in the diamond industry did not allow women in their business.

Even if such mentality still exists and prospers in the jewelry industry, GemGenève breaks the mold by carefully catering its exhibitors for their goods as much as for their ethics in the business. Gender is not an issue, nor is age; everyone is happy to share their knowledge and pass on the secrets of the trade, craftmanship and history of their pieces. Everyone is welcome, which fosters a real spirit of mentorship at GemGenève.

Creativity is rewarded!

The idea of the mentorship is key to the Swiss fair. Created by two Geneva-based dealers, pillars in the industry, Mr. Thomas Faerber and Mr. Ronny Totah, both started this new concept with the idea of promoting new talents and bringing the spotlight to the craftsmen behind the jewels. With each GemGenève, a selection of new talents is exposed, scholarships are offered to young designers, jewelry drawing contests take place, scholars and experts share their knowledge around public round table and talks...ect. The list goes on and the vision remains to put forwards the next generation of creative minds.

As a jewelry historian and a University Professor, I am delighted to see that at GemGenève a place is given to education and fostering young talents.

Research is shared!

GemGenève gives a sense of restored community in the jewelry world. All aspects of the jewelry and gem trade are represented and discussed; not only the most renown dealers are promoted, but a light is shine equally on the lapidarist, the pearl threader, the stone setter, … ect. All craftmanship, the core of making jewelry, are put to the front of the stage.

I had the priveledge to interview for GemGenève, les ARTISANS from “la Villa des Arts Perdus”, the lost arts pavilion, a space dedicaded to craftmanship demonstrations. I learned so much during those informal meetings! There is a will and an interest in sharing and passing on the knowledge and teach ancestral methods to the next generation. In addition, Gemological labs, such as the SSEF, are present not just to offer their services like at any other trade shows, but to present their latest research and technology to insure the best results and security in the field of expertise. Talks on different current subjects and book promotions are opened for all to assist and ask questions to the panels of specialists.

Transmission is at the heart of GemGeneve with everyone welcomed to trade, learn and share; this is why it is such a special fair and one that represent, for me, the future.

Here are my highlights for this 2023 edition:

- Coup de cœur for this fabulous Persian Tiger Clip, 1972, offered at Paul Fisher.

Yellow gold, chrysophrases, lapis lazuli, enamel and diamonds, by Van Cleef & Arpels.

This same model was seen in Van Cleef & Arpels Collection, exhibited in Milano in Van Cleef & Arpels Time, Nature, Love in February 2020.

- The interviews with les métiers « des arts perdus » to which I participated as the interviewer 

- Now a well-established tradition with the GemGenève team to challenge me to “borrow” the forbidden motored-ride of Ronny. Succeeded once again…

Looking forward to the next Gemgenève!